24 NOVEMBER

Adidas, Levi Strauss & Co, and PVH Corp are backing a new consortium project to understand both the pre-consumer and post-consumer textile waste streams in India, and to pilot 'sort and map' solutions.

Spearheaded by Fashion for Good, the ‘Sorting For Circularity India Project’ aims to build an accessible infrastructure for manufacturers, sorters, collectors, waste handlers and recyclers in India.

The project brings together industry players, including Fashion for Good partners Adidas, Levi Strauss & Co, and PVH Corp, Arvind Limited, Birla Cellulose and Welspun India. A key technology partner for the project is Fashion for Good innovator Reverse Resources. The company provides the analysis of the pre-consumer textile waste streams in addition to designing and running the pre-consumer pilot.

Over 15 months, the project will demonstrate a new textile value chain across three phases. Firstly, by obtaining an overall understanding of the textile waste supply chain of pre and post-consumer textile waste in India. Secondly, by identifying and piloting technologies that enable the traceability of textile waste and its accessibility to existing recyclers. And finally, providing recyclers with access to textile waste feedstocks that meet the quality parameters of advanced recycling technologies, giving these technologies an incentive to scale in India.

The project is supported through catalytic funding provided by Laudes Foundation.

Main image credit: Saahas Zero Waste

16 DECEMBER

US apparel industry applauds passage of Uyghur Forced Labor bill


US brands and retailers have welcomed Congressional passage of the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act.


In a joint statement, the American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA), National Retail Federation (NRF), the Retail Industry Leaders Association (RILA), the United States Fashion Industry Association (USFIA), and NAFTZ, the voice of the US Foreign-Trade Zones programme, said Congressional passage of the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act is a “key component of a broad global strategy, and our shared goal, to end forced labour”.


The bill was passed by Congress yesterday (16 December) and is now on its way to the White House to be signed into law. It will all but ban imports connected at any point in the supply chain to China’s Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region (XUAR). It poses a challenge for importers of goods from anywhere in the world that may use inputs made in this region, according to international trade law firm Sandler, Travis & Rosenberg (ST&R).


The firm explains the Act requires US Customs and Border Protection (CBP) to presume that all goods manufactured wholly or in part in the XUAR are made with forced labour and therefore prohibited from entry into the US.


ST&R adds this presumption can be overcome if (1) the importer provides “clear and convincing evidence” to CBP that the goods were not made with forced labour and (2) the importer has fully complied with due diligence guidance and regulations to be issued by the US government and responded to all related CBP inquiries.

16 DECEMBER

The ACT initiative halts Myanmar engagement

Members of the ACT initiative, which campaigns for living wages for workers, have moved to cease action in Myanmar on the back of troubles experienced by local trade unions as a result of the military coup in the country. ACT published the decision on 15 December, adding Myanmar has been one of its priority countries since 2018.


“In December 2021, members took the difficult decision to cease ACT’s operations in Myanmar,” the statement read. “This is a consequence of the withdrawal of IndustriAll’s local trade union affiliate IWFM from the ACT operations, because they are no longer able to operate freely under the current circumstances. ACT will evaluate its potential future engagement if the situation in the country changes.”


On 1 February 2021, the Myanmar military (Tatmadaw) staged a coup d’etat hours before a parliamentary session to pre-empt the swearing-in of cabinet members. Dozens of elected leaders from the National League for Democracy (NLD) were detained by the military, including former president Win Myint and former state counsellor Aung San Suu Kyi.

17 DECEMBER


UK clothing sales surpass pre-pandemic levels for first time


The latest data released by the Office for National Statistics (ONS) shows UK clothing store sales volumes in November were above pre-Coronavirus levels for the first time. Clothing stores reported an increase of 2.9% month-on-month to surpass their pre-Coronavirus level, with sales volumes 3.2% above levels in February last year.


Overall UK retail sales volumes rose by 1.4% month-on-month in November

and were 7.2% higher than their pre-pandemic levels.


Meanwhile, online spending values rose in November by 0.1% when compared with the month prior. Despite this small increase, the proportion of online sales fell to 26.9% in November from 27.3% in October. This is a continuation of a falling trend since its peak in February (36.8%).


While this is the lowest proportion of online retail spending since March 2020 (22.6%), it remains far higher than the proportion of online retail spending in February 2020, before the pandemic, which was 19.7%.

5 OCTOBER

French Connection sold in GBP29m deal and founder steps down


French Connection has been acquired by a consortium, including its second-largest shareholder in a GBP29m (US$39.5m) deal.


French Connection accepted a deal of 30p per share from Apinder Singh Ghura and Amarjit Singh Grewal, as well as holding company KJR Brothers Ltd. The deal sees founder Stephen Marks step down from his role as chairman of the company.


Marks said: “Over the last five years, French Connection has made significant progress in its plans to rationalise the size of its store portfolio and to return the French Connection Group to profitability. It was always our intention to look at the most appropriate ownership structure for the business once it was back on track, and, having conducted a formal sale process, the French Connection Board has concluded that the offer being made by MIP is fair and reasonable.


“When the transaction closes, I will retire from French Connection. This is an appropriate time for me to step back from the business that I founded in 1972, and I would like to take this opportunity to thank all our people for their contribution to our achievements over the years. I wish them all every success in the future.”

In brief

Eni completes acquisition of stake in Dogger Bank A and B wind farms

Eni has completed the acquisition of a 20% stake in the first two phases of the 3.6GW Dogger Bank Wind Farm in the North Sea for £206.4m ($287.3m).

Neoen reaches financial close for 300MW Australian battery facility

Neoen has reached the financial close of the Victorian Big Battery project, a 300MW/450MWh energy storage facility in Australia.

Southern Power Generation’s Track 4A plant begins operations in Malaysia

Southern Power Generation’s 1.44GW Track 4A Power Plant in Pasir Gudang, Johor, Malaysia has started commercial operations.

Total farms down solar and wind portfolio in stake sale in France

The renewable generation subsidiary of oil giant Total has agreed to sell half of its equity stake in several solar and wind farms to two French financiers.

Scatec and Nizam Energy close financing for solar plant in Pakistan

Renewable developer Scatec and local partner Nizam Energy have secured a $100m financial closure for a solar project in Pakistan.

In brief

Eni completes acquisition of stake in Dogger Bank A and B wind farms

Eni has completed the acquisition of a 20% stake in the first two phases of the 3.6GW Dogger Bank Wind Farm in the North Sea for £206.4m ($287.3m).

Neoen reaches financial close for 300MW Australian battery facility

Neoen has reached the financial close of the Victorian Big Battery project, a 300MW/450MWh energy storage facility in Australia.

Southern Power Generation’s Track 4A plant begins operations in Malaysia

Southern Power Generation’s 1.44GW Track 4A Power Plant in Pasir Gudang, Johor, Malaysia has started commercial operations.

Total farms down solar and wind portfolio in stake sale in France

The renewable generation subsidiary of oil giant Total has agreed to sell half of its equity stake in several solar and wind farms to two French financiers.

Scatec and Nizam Energy close financing for solar plant in Pakistan

Renewable developer Scatec and local partner Nizam Energy have secured a $100m financial closure for a solar project in Pakistan.

2 DECEMBER

Fashion recovery in 2022 will be offset by supply chain strains


The fashion industry is on the road to recovery with the global sales forecast to increase during 2022 against 2019 levels, but the fashion supply chain is in for a rocky ride according to McKinsey & Co's 'State of Fashion 2022' report.

While the overall tone of the report from McKinsey & Co, and Business of Fashion is positive noting global fashion sales set to surpass 2019 levels by 3-8% in 2022 – a faster recovery rate than anticipated even six months ago – supply chain pressures are identified as the main challenge for the industry, posing a risk to the pace of the recovery with 67% of businesses expecting to increase prices next year.


‘The State of Fashion 2022’, now in its sixth year, analyses responses from more than 220 international fashion executives and experts, providing an authoritative view on what lies ahead for the industry.

19 NOVEMBER

Hilfiger-owner PVH Corp to close Ethiopia factory


PVH Corp, the owner of brands including Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger, has announced the closure of its factory in Ethiopia's Hawassa Industrial Park following concerns over the escalating human rights situation in the country.


PVH said it had worked for over five years with the government, civil society, and business partners in Ethiopia to make the park a leader in inclusive development and was proud of the work it had done there.


The factory opened in 2016 and this summer, after PVH sold its Heritage Brands portfolio, it took the decision to transfer the facility over to a partner in Ethiopia before tensions escalated.


“The sale of PVH’s Heritage Brands earlier this year led PVH to begin planning a smooth transition of the facility to a trusted supply partner who is already active in Ethiopia. The speed and volatility of the escalating situation there made the transition no longer possible, resulting in the difficult decision to close the facility,”

a spokesperson for the company told

Just Style.

18 OCTOBER

New UK trust addresses garment worker issues in Leicester

The new Leicester Garment and Textile Workers Trust has formally launched to address the immediate and future

needs of workers within the local

garment industry.


The founding trustees believe the UK initiative will create positive and lasting change for the benefit of apparel factory workers in Leicester and beyond.


It aims to provide guidance, advocacy

and solutions for anyone working in Leicester’s garment industry and has been

supported by a donation of GBP1.1m

by the Boohoo Group.


To ensure the Trust delivers long term positive and measurable impact, the Trustees have commissioned research from experts at the University of Nottingham’s Rights Lab, said to be the largest group of modern slavery scholars in the world, and home to leading academic experts on modern slavery.

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