Industry news
1 March 2023
Discarded textiles in Europe, including used clothing and footwear, are an increasing waste and export problem, a new report has found.
Rapidly increasing EU exports of textile waste — some of which is reused and some of which ends up in landfills — show that Europe faces a challenge in how to handle its own used textiles, according to a European Environment Agency (EEA) briefing published in early March.
The amount of used textiles exported from the European Union (EU) has tripled over the past two decades, and the amounts may increase further, according to the EEA briefing ‘EU exports of used textiles in Europe’s circular economy’. The briefing is based on a more detailed analysis by the EEA’s European Topic Centre of Circular Economy and Resource Use.
Europe faces major challenges in the management of used textiles, which are to be collected separately in the EU by 2025, the report states. As reuse and recycling capacities in Europe are limited, a large share of discarded and donated clothing and other textile products are exported to Africa and Asia.
Common public perceptions that used clothing donations are always of use in those regions do not reflect the reality. Once exported, the fate of used textiles is often uncertain, according to the EEA briefing which looks at the patterns of and trends in EU exports of used textiles from 2000 to 2019.
Main image credit: Sorbis / Shutterstock
1 March 2023
California introduces Act for responsible textile disposal and reuse
US Senator Josh Newman has introduced a new act in California to responsibly tackle textile and clothing waste in a bid to promote circularity.
California's new Responsible Textile Recovery Act of 2023 would require producers to establish a stewardship programme for the collection and recycling of “covered products,” which include any apparel, textile, or textile article that is unsuitable for reuse by a consumer in its current state or condition.
The Act is aimed at facilitating the repair and reuse of clothing and the recycling of textile fibres and will be enacted under Bill SB 707.
Senator Newman explained that the average US consumer discards more than 81 pounds of clothing each year – an amount that has increased 55% since the year 2000 on a per capita basis. Adding, that textiles are now the fastest-growing component of California’s landfills, comprising 3% of total landfilled waste, and the fifth-most common material overall.
He said: “If properly sorted and processed, the fibres within most clothing items and textiles are highly suitable for recycling and repurposing into new products. Once passed, SB 707 will establish an extended producer responsibility (EPR) programme for recycling textiles in California under the auspices of CalRecycle and an ensuing advisory body to be created under the statute.”
8 March 2023
Cambodia garment workers impacted by crisis to receive financial aid
Cambodia’s Ministry of Labor (MOL) is implementing a scheme in partnership with garment factory owners to provide financial allowances for workers impacted by the economic crisis.
In a statement issued on 7 March, Cambodia’s Ministry of Labor said the initiative was a recommendation of Prime Minister Samdech Hun Sen. Dr Ith Sam Heng, Minister of Labor and Vocational Training, chaired a meeting with representatives of employers’ associations related to the garment and footwear sectors.
The meeting highlighted the declining trend of orders due to the global economic crisis caused by the Russia-Ukraine war, in addition to the past effects of the Covid crisis. It was noted that the status of the suspension of employment contracts has been increasing and it is uncertain whether this will return to normal at any time. In addition, other costs related to production and export have not yet reduced.
2 March 2023
ETI backs IndustriALL framework for responsible Myanmar exit
UK independent body, Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI), endorses IndustriALL Global Union's framework principles to aid a responsible exit from Myanmar.
Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI) strongly supports the framework strategy created by the IndustriALL Global Union and urges any fashion companies operating in Myanmar, intending to cut ties, to follow suit.
IndustriALL announced the framework last week, which was created alongside a number of apparel brands with operations in Myanmar to aid a responsible exit from the country.
Following the military takeover in February 2021, Myanmar’s garment industry is still struggling to continue effective operations since the takeover. It has continued to harm the country’s economy, especially those sectors heavily dependent on international trade, such as the garment industry.
1 March 2023
Under Armour develops test to tackle fibre shedding at source
To support the creation of lower-shed products, Under Armour’s innovative test accurately measures a fabric’s propensity to shed.
Under Armour Inc. has developed a new testing methodology to help fight fibre shedding at its source. The innovation supports progress toward the company’s sustainability goal for 75% of fabrics in its products to be made of low-shed materials by 2030.
To Identify high-shed materials for redevelopment or discontinuance before they hit the market, the US apparel brand has started testing materials and measuring their shed rate early in the product development process. It is also using the technique to prevent high-shed rates for new textile candidates from reaching their product development streams.
“Our strategy focuses on working to help address the root causes of shedding, starting with the ability to measure it. Through ongoing efforts to redevelop high-shed fabrics to shed less, or avoid them entirely, we are leveraging our skills to positively impact our industry and communities,” said Jeremy Stangeland, senior manager of the Materials Lab for Under Armour.
In brief
Eni completes acquisition of stake in Dogger Bank A and B wind farms
Eni has completed the acquisition of a 20% stake in the first two phases of the 3.6GW Dogger Bank Wind Farm in the North Sea for £206.4m ($287.3m).
Neoen reaches financial close for 300MW Australian battery facility
Neoen has reached the financial close of the Victorian Big Battery project, a 300MW/450MWh energy storage facility in Australia.
Southern Power Generation’s Track 4A plant begins operations in Malaysia
Southern Power Generation’s 1.44GW Track 4A Power Plant in Pasir Gudang, Johor, Malaysia has started commercial operations.
Total farms down solar and wind portfolio in stake sale in France
The renewable generation subsidiary of oil giant Total has agreed to sell half of its equity stake in several solar and wind farms to two French financiers.
Scatec and Nizam Energy close financing for solar plant in Pakistan
Renewable developer Scatec and local partner Nizam Energy have secured a $100m financial closure for a solar project in Pakistan.
In brief
Eni completes acquisition of stake in Dogger Bank A and B wind farms
Eni has completed the acquisition of a 20% stake in the first two phases of the 3.6GW Dogger Bank Wind Farm in the North Sea for £206.4m ($287.3m).
Neoen reaches financial close for 300MW Australian battery facility
Neoen has reached the financial close of the Victorian Big Battery project, a 300MW/450MWh energy storage facility in Australia.
Southern Power Generation’s Track 4A plant begins operations in Malaysia
Southern Power Generation’s 1.44GW Track 4A Power Plant in Pasir Gudang, Johor, Malaysia has started commercial operations.
Total farms down solar and wind portfolio in stake sale in France
The renewable generation subsidiary of oil giant Total has agreed to sell half of its equity stake in several solar and wind farms to two French financiers.
Scatec and Nizam Energy close financing for solar plant in Pakistan
Renewable developer Scatec and local partner Nizam Energy have secured a $100m financial closure for a solar project in Pakistan.
24 February 2023
China, Ethiopia strengthen apparel sector ties with new MOU
China and Ethiopia have signed a memorandum of understanding (MoU) to establish an investment and economic cooperation working group, which Dr Sheng Lu tells Just Style could strengthen ties between the countries' apparel sectors.
Earlier this week (22 February) at the Joint Economic and Trade Commission meeting in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia and China signed an MoU to strengthen economic and trade connections in vital sectors.
Dr Sheng Lu, associate professor in the Department of Fashion and Apparel Studies at the University Delaware tells Just Style exclusively: “The latest MOU could further strengthen the close tie between Ethiopia and China in the textile and apparel sector. Notably, as a response to western fashion companies’ efforts to diversify sourcing, Chinese companies are encouraged to invest overseas, including countries like Ethiopia which enjoy preferential duty access to many western fashion markets.”
As of 1 March 2023, China will grant zero-tariff treatment to 98% of the tariff line, which includes 8,804 products made in Ethiopia.
28 February 2023
Mango launches Bangladesh education initiative in garment producing regions
European fashion retailer Mango has embarked on a project with the Save the Children charity to promote education among children and women in garment producing regions in Bangladesh.
The joint initiative between Mango and Save the Children will take place in the Daca and Savar regions – two local communities close to several factories Mango works with. The aim is to contribute to the social and economic development of Bangladesh, a key location for clothing manufacture worldwide.
The Goals project focuses on promoting access to education and sport through the construction of four primary schools and the promotion of leisure and educational activities.
The initiative, to which the company will donate a total of EUR500,000 (US$531,000), will have a duration of two years and will benefit more than 4,000 people in Bangladesh. Half of the beneficiaries are minors, with special emphasis placed on working women and their daughters, who will make up 70% of the beneficiaries. In the second phase, the project will be extended to Turkiye.
1 March 2023
OECD and IAF: Purchasing practices are key to due diligence
The IAF expressed support for the European corporate sustainability due diligence legislation while calling for it to be implemented along the lines set by the OECD’s due diligence guidance and for effective enforcement to create a level playing field.
The OECD’s forum on due diligence in the textile and footwear industry, held in Paris in February 2023, saw significant participation from IAF.
The IAF, a federation for apparel manufacturers, primarily represents the interests of garment manufacturers and small and medium-sized brands.
The event brought together companies, suppliers, NGOs, CSOs, international organisations, and government representatives from across the world. It addressed emerging risks, and shared learnings on implementing due diligence across geographies in a neutral environment.
Several partners in the global Sustainable Terms of Trade Initiative (STTI) and IAF emphasized how important purchasing practices are to effective due diligence.
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