Vidalia Mills – Weaving a new vision for US denim

But there's also the ambition to set a new standard for sustainability and transparency in the North America denim industry – and offset the negative environmental impact of traditional denim processing.

"As the denim industry grows, we're facing more and more challenges from consumers demanding real transparency, real efficiency in water usage, real accountability on cotton, and to make a real case as to why denim should be in people's wardrobes as a sustainable fabric that people want to enjoy wearing long into the future,” Feibus explains.

"Fabrics come and fabrics go, and at some point denim's going to have to justify why it makes sense."

Vidalia Mills will provide customers with traceability from the retail shelf all the way back to the farm where the cotton was grown. In an industry first, it will only use BASF's e3 sustainable cotton sourced from across the US farm belt and traceable from the farmer to the retailer.

"To get real transparency and accountability isn't easy, because of how the cotton comes from the field and into the plant. You literally have hundreds of gin points in the United States; mills buy from merchants who aggregate cotton from this massive 20m bale crop, and special orders so you get the right qualities, the right colour tendencies...it's not an easy job.”

Another pioneering move will see the mill become the first in North America – and the first in the world – to use a new and environmentally-friendly yarn dyeing technology for denim that uses foam instead of water and will result in significant water and energy savings.

On top of this, more than 50% of Vidalia's energy needs will be met by renewable resources, including the local hydro-dam; and the business is committed to zero waste-water discharge. It is also teaming up with The Lubrizol Corporation whose stretch fibres offer sustainable benefits such as processing at lower temperatures and recyclability.

Other manufacturing details have also been designed into the process that "result in better denim, better cost efficiency, and a better customer experience. It's something that we really want to instil, and we hope we create a ripple effect through the industry with what we do," says Feibus.

For example, the mill will have both open-end and ring spinning featuring air-conditioning systems from Turkish engineering group Temsan that use less energy and offer better quality. And as well as the selvedge looms, there will also be 40 "latest generation" Picanol rapier weaving machines.

The new plant will employ around 600 workers, and is currently preparing to ramp up its operations ahead of full commercial production by the second quarter of next year. Alongside this, facilities are also planned for fabric, yarn and product development, testing, cut make and trim production, laundry and third-party logistics (3PL).

The Vidalia Mills team believes its efficient cost structure and energy-saving technologies will make US-made denim an attractive sourcing option for brands and retailers.

There's also the benefit of speed-to-market (as opposed to Turkey, Italy or Japan), as well as having brand and design teams operating in the same time zone and language as their production partner. And at a time when trade turmoil is forcing many apparel firms to re-think their sourcing strategies, the onshore option means there are no concerns about tariffs or import costs.

"It's time to change what the denim industry means to the consumer, and not just with a gimmick but with a real traceable, transparent manufacturing chain," says Feibus.

Headline image: Vidalia Mills aims to be the go-to sustainable denim mill in the western hemisphere