Industry news
30 November 2022
UK apparel, food and homeware retailer Marks & Spencer (M&S) plans to curate peronalised outfit inspiration for its customers following its acquisition of Thread’s brand, technology and data.
The company anticipates earning more than GBP100m (US$121.99m) in terms of incremental revenue annually and plans to integrate the functionality into its customer offering.
Thread started 10 years ago as a personalised fashion marketplace. Its goal was to make it easier for men and women to dress well: “To achieve this we pioneered how to combine cutting-edge AI with expert stylists, to give each person the perfect set of recommendations,” said Kieran O’Neill, CEO and co-founder of Thread.
M&S plans to integrate the technology into its website with the hope of accelerating its personalisation offering and delivering a unique customer experience. The personalisation capabilities will stretch across all clothing products available on its website, including the retailers’ third-party brand partners which complement the core offer at M&S.
Main image credit: Sorbis / Shutterstock
1 December 2022
Bright future for Joules after GBP34m Next takeover
UK retailer Next Plc has confirmed it has partnered with Tom Joule to acquire Joules out of administration, in a deal worth GBP34m (US$41.5m), a move industry onlookers believe is a positive one.
As part of the deal, Next said it intends to keep 100 of 124 Joules store locations, which GlobalData apparel analyst Pippa Stephens says is “a positive outcome” and one we may not have seen under the ownership of other contenders like Frasers Group.
In addition, Next has acquired the current Joules head office for GBP7m cash.
28 November 2022
Brands prepare for Germany’s upcoming supply chain due diligence law
From January 2023 brands selling fashion in Germany or operating within the country will be bound by the Due Diligence Law concerning environmental and social responsibility.
Germany is keen to address the issue of brands’ due diligence negligence in supply chains with its Act on Corporate Due Diligence Obligations in Supply Chains (LkSG).
Mauro Scalia, director of sustainable businesses at Euratex, tells Just Style exclusively, respect for human rights in global supply chains is a key matter for the European industry, stating that large companies at the top of the supply chain already pass on the obligations imposed on them to suppliers and subcontractors through contractual clauses.
He added: “With the planned entry into force of the Supply Chain Act on 1 January 2023, companies face enormous bureaucratic burdens and reporting obligations. From 2023, companies that employ at least 3,000 workers and thus fall within the scope of the Act will have to prepare an annual report on the fulfilment of due diligence obligations in the previous business year.”
30 November 2022
Primark says 45% of range now green in first sustainability report
Primark has revealed almost half (45%) of its clothing now contains recycled or more sustainably sourced materials, up from 25% at the launch of its sustainability strategy last September.
Primark, owned by Associated British Foods, revealed the details as part of its first-ever sustainability report.
Primark’s inaugural Sustainability and Ethics Progress Report sets out the company’s progress across its Primark Cares commitments and outlines its broader social impact and environmental sustainability work across its products, stores and the wider supply chain. The increased focus and investment in new teams and skills across the business has allowed Primark to accelerate progress against its commitments.
Primark added that in the face of rising cost-of-living pressures, it remains intent on delivering its vision of making more sustainable fashion affordable for all. One year on since the launch of its Primark Cares sustainability strategy, 45% of all clothes Primark sold came under its Primark Cares label denoting clothes that contain either recycled or more sustainable materials.
1 DECEMBER 2022
BGMEA says technology crucial for next stage of industrialisation
Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association’s president Faruque Hassan told attendees at the Leadership Summit hosted by the Indian Ocean Rim Business Forum (IORBF) in Dhaka, Bangladesh that technology will play a crucial role in the “next stage of industrialisation.” He explained it will help to improve sustainability, competitiveness and to provide decent employment within Bangladesh.
Delegates at the event included education minister Dipu Moni (MP) as chief guest, private industry and investment adviser to the Prime Minister Salman Fazlur Rahman (MP) and state minister for disaster management and relief Enamur Rahman (MP) as special guests, as well as the IORBF’s chair Sheikh Fazle Fahim.
In his speech Hassan also highlighted the correlation between sustainability and digitalisation and how they complemented each other.
In brief
Eni completes acquisition of stake in Dogger Bank A and B wind farms
Eni has completed the acquisition of a 20% stake in the first two phases of the 3.6GW Dogger Bank Wind Farm in the North Sea for £206.4m ($287.3m).
Neoen reaches financial close for 300MW Australian battery facility
Neoen has reached the financial close of the Victorian Big Battery project, a 300MW/450MWh energy storage facility in Australia.
Southern Power Generation’s Track 4A plant begins operations in Malaysia
Southern Power Generation’s 1.44GW Track 4A Power Plant in Pasir Gudang, Johor, Malaysia has started commercial operations.
Total farms down solar and wind portfolio in stake sale in France
The renewable generation subsidiary of oil giant Total has agreed to sell half of its equity stake in several solar and wind farms to two French financiers.
Scatec and Nizam Energy close financing for solar plant in Pakistan
Renewable developer Scatec and local partner Nizam Energy have secured a $100m financial closure for a solar project in Pakistan.
In brief
Eni completes acquisition of stake in Dogger Bank A and B wind farms
Eni has completed the acquisition of a 20% stake in the first two phases of the 3.6GW Dogger Bank Wind Farm in the North Sea for £206.4m ($287.3m).
Neoen reaches financial close for 300MW Australian battery facility
Neoen has reached the financial close of the Victorian Big Battery project, a 300MW/450MWh energy storage facility in Australia.
Southern Power Generation’s Track 4A plant begins operations in Malaysia
Southern Power Generation’s 1.44GW Track 4A Power Plant in Pasir Gudang, Johor, Malaysia has started commercial operations.
Total farms down solar and wind portfolio in stake sale in France
The renewable generation subsidiary of oil giant Total has agreed to sell half of its equity stake in several solar and wind farms to two French financiers.
Scatec and Nizam Energy close financing for solar plant in Pakistan
Renewable developer Scatec and local partner Nizam Energy have secured a $100m financial closure for a solar project in Pakistan.
30 November 2022
Clothing firms holding 57% more stock than pre-pandemic
New industry data reveals clothing and fashion firms are holding 57% more stock compared to pre-pandemic levels as the world’s supply chain woes take on a new form.
Unleashed’s Manufacturers Health Check report used data from its inventory management software to track how SMEs in the UK have fared in 2022. It shows businesses, including clothing, are forced to sit on huge quantities of stock as they navigate delays and shortages against a background of rising inflation.
The analysis of more than 4,500 SMEs paints a picture of manufacturer health by examining four main data points: the value of stock on hand, Gross Margin Return on Inventory (GMROI – a profitability evaluation ratio), fulfilment days, and the price paid for goods purchased.
Clothing and fashion manufacturers saw the seventh biggest increase in stock-on-hand levels of any sector when comparing Q3 stock levels in 2022 vs the same period in 2019 – up 57% on pre-pandemic levels.
30 November 2022
H&M eyes SEK2bn saving as 1500 jobs to go on restructure
Fashion retailer Hennes & Mauritz (H&M) Group is to restructure its business due to the impact of rising inflation and the energy crisis, a move which puts 1,500 jobs at risk.
Following a statement made in September that it was implementing a “cost and efficiency programme,” H&M said it had initiated a global restructure programme to reduce costs and improve efficiency in the business. The programme relates to administrative and overhead costs, and entails reducing the workforce by around 1,500 positions.
Overall, it is estimated that this will provide annual savings of around SEK2bn which are expected to become visible in the second half of 2023. H&M says the programme is expected to result in a restructure charge of just over SEK800m in the fourth quarter of 2022.
“The cost and efficiency programme that we have initiated involves reviewing our organisation and we are very mindful of the fact that colleagues will be affected by this. We will support our colleagues in finding the best possible solution for their next step,” said H&M CEO, Helena Helmersson.
30 NOVEMBER 2021
Global fashion industry heading for 2023 slowdown
The global fashion industry is headed for a global slowdown in 2023, a new report has revealed, with supply chain pressures, the Ukraine war and rising inflation all creating a bleak picture.
McKinsey & Company’s annual The State of Fashion 2023 report published with The Business of Fashion, highlights how over half of global fashion industry executives expect conditions to worsen in 2023.
Indeed, just as the fashion industry was beginning to find its feet after the turmoil of the pandemic, the later months of 2022 seem determined to throw brands and retailers off course again. Deteriorating macroeconomic and geopolitical conditions have weighed heavily on the industry in the second half of the year and continue to leave fashion executives on edge as they look towards 2023.
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